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Travel Tips: The Road Warrior's Guide To Great Food, Wonderful Places To Go And Stay--Recommendations From
The Achievement Digest ®

GENERAL TRAVEL TIPS

***Before Gary B. Cohen leaves for vacation, here are the instructions he leaves at the office:
1. Call with good news.
2. Don't call with bad news that I can't do anything about. 
3. Don't call if someone else could deal with the issue.
4. Call if I need to know and I can do something about it.
***Tip for readers: Create a folder for cities and countries you plan to visit and clip out items on those places.
***dinnerbroker.com
An innovative, easy-to-use website that permits you to pick a city and select a participating restaurant.  (There are some excellent ones to choose from.)  If you select an off-peak time, the site tells you the discount that will be deducted from your bill.  No need to confirm by phone. Make your reservation on-line. Then, just show up and order your meal.  No coupons to clip or print or cards to punch for your discount. 

***Caveat emptor.  Chefs leave and owners sell.  This is the story of the restaurant and hotel world.  What might have been a treat a couple of years ago may be mediocre today.  That's the reason dates are posted for these reviews.  Chances are, the establishment is still excellent.   (For example, Brennan's has been deservedly famous for decades.)  But if we discover that an establishment does not quite up to its earlier standards, we'll tell you. 

Great Airports  DETROIT, VANCOUVER, CHARLOTTE, PELLSTON (MI)
Detroit's Metropolitan Wayne County Airport. Over $2 billion dollars has been spent to make Detroit's International Airport first-rate, and it shows. Vancouver's International Airport is in a class by itself--the most beautiful and functional airport that I've been in.

UNITED STATES
  AMERICAN VIRGIN ISLANDS
  ST.JOHN  Thanks to a gift from Laurence Rockefeller, about 2/3rds of St. John is now under the control of the National Park Service. If you take a three-hour tour around the island, you’ll see rain forests, fabulous beaches, and crystal-clear water for snorkeling and diving. Cinnamon Bay and Maho Bay are two of the loveliest spots in the world. The ferry ride from St. Thomas to St. John takes about 20 minutes and costs $3.00.

   ST. THOMAS  ST. THOMAS is considered down-scale from St. John because of congestion and a goodly number of buildings that are (How shall we say it?) not very beautiful. That said, the Ritz Carlton is a stunner. Built on a cliff overlooking a fine little beach, it is far from shabby or inexpensive. There’s also a great French restaurant--Herve´--in the quaint historic section of downtown Charlotte Amalie. The veal dishes are particularly good as are the coquilles, shrimp, and lobster St. Jacques; the service is excellent. Their signature drink “The Herve´ Froghopper” is memorable.

Until now, the proprietors, Herve´ and Paulette, have never given out the recipe for the Herve´ Froghopper. Here it is: 1 oz. (Cruzan) dark rum; .5 oz. Rose’s lime juice; .5 oz. Sweet n’ Sour; .5 melon liqueur; splash of Coco Lopez (liquid coconut). Add all ingredients to blender on ice and blend thoroughly. Top with slice of lime and cherry—take a drink and then breathe a prayer of thanks for Herve´ and Paulette. (www.herverestaurant.com  340-777-9703)

   St. Croix  St. Croix is an island with a past and a future. Columbus, who visited the island in 1493, called it “Santa Cruz”—Holy Cross, which is what St. Croix means. It’s not very crowded, has a diversified economy, and a modern infrastructure. But it’s a pleasure to visit now. To get to St. Croix from St. Thomas you can go by fast ferry (a bit over an hour) or by sea plane (20 minutes). Or you can fly from San Juan (about 40 minutes).

One option in St. Croix is to rent a condo. I like Sugar Beach Condo & Resort (http://www.sugarbeachstcroix.com 1-800-524-2049)which is directly on the beach and is near the old Danish town of Christiansted. St. Croix is the only island with a casino. It also has horse racing and two fine golf courses: Carambola, a Robert Trent Jones-designed course, and a beautiful 18-hole course at the Buccaneer Resort.  April 2005

CALIFORNIA
   Cheap Eats In California 
   Many travelers can't wait to get to California for the hamburgers at IN-N-OUT BURGER. Don't expect ultra-fast service. Everything is made from scratch. The company prides itself that it has never owned a freezer, microwave or heat lamp.  The buns are baked fresh every day and the lettuce is hand- leafed and the onions are hand-sliced.  It's one of my favorite places.  WINTER 2003/2004
    Dana Point
   The St. Regis. Until recently, when one talked about great hotels between Los Angeles and San Diego, the Ritz Carleton at Leguna Niguel reigned supreme.   Now there’s a new and serious contender: The St. Regis (Monarch Beach Resort and Spa).  Located on a breathtaking property at Dana Point, the common areas, the appointments and décor of the rooms are things of delight. Wonderful customer service.  Room prices—usually north of $400 per night, yet completely booked when I was there.  Spring 2003
    Del Mar
   Scalini is an excellent Italian restaurant just off California's Interstate 5 between LA and San Diego, just south of Encinitas. I enjoyed their Trancia di "Halibut"--baked northern Halibut with a fresh herb crust. It came with grilled white asparagus, tomato-Rosemary butter and roasted potatoes. 858-259-9944   September 2004
    Los Angeles/Marina Del Rey/Santa Monica 
   Hans Rockenwagner’s restaurant on Main Street in Santa Monica is justly regarded as one of LA’s best.  Gourmet Magazine called it one of LA’s top ten in 2000.  Now Rockenwagner has opened a new restaurant in my neighborhood: the Ballona Fish Market (13455 Maxella Ave in  Marina del Rey --310-822-8979--15 minutes from LAX)  Not fussy, moderate in price, with original, tasty dishes.  Here are a few:  Striped Bass Filet on Carrot Gnocchi, Sugar Snap Peas, and Chanterelle Mushrooms ($17.95); Seafood Stew in Lobster Broth with Tomatoes, Leeks, and Roasted Pepper Rouille ($16.95); and my favorite, Ballona Crusted Sole over Artichoke, and Tomato Stew with Preserved Lemons ($16.95).  If you go, you just might find me at one of the tables. SUMMER 2003

I revisited Lilly's French Café & Bar in Venice, CA and found it as wonderful as I remembered it. Ask to be seated in the outdoor patio. Inquire about their "set-up" menus. I love their artichoke with mustard vinaigrette, their grilled salmon with green lentiles and soy ginger sauce, and their sauteed striped bass served with fennel and leek tart with merlot sauce. I should also mention one of their specialties--Canard a l'orange pommes gaufrettes (Roasted "Maple Leaf Farm" duck with orange sauce served with waffle potatoes and French green beans.) They serve a lunch special--two courses for $10. Plan to stroll through the fabulous little shops in the neighborhood. 1031 Abbott Kinney Blvd., Venice, CA 90291  310-314-0004  APRIL 2005

    San Francisco Area
  Alta Mira Hotel and Restaurant in Sausalito, California. (Alta Mira means "high view" in Spanish.) Negotiation-expert Bob Gibson introduced me to this lovely spot where we had a memorable breakfast of Eggs Benedict and good coffee on the patio. Breathtaking view of the Bay. A treasure since the 1880s, Alta Mira is a short drive from the Golden Gate Bridge. (415-332-1350)  March 2005

FLORIDA

   Ft. Lauderdale
The River House   This popular restaurant is located in a charming location along the New River of downtown Ft. Lauderdale.  Nearby is The New River Inn, a quaint little hotel of the past that now is a museum and office for the historical society.  One of the most popular specialties of the restaurant is the crabmeat crusted first-of-the-season halibut with asparagus-wild mushroom-shallot-potato ragu, and sweet corn sauce.  301 Southwest 3rd Avenue
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312; Telephone:954-525-7661
   Jacksonville
     Bistro Aix.  Combine a celebrity chef--Thomas Gray--with a handsome bistro-like atmosphere and an imaginative menu. Add a wood-burning pasta oven, and what do you get?  A destination.  My favorite was the grilled center cut pork loin on parsnip puree with watercress tossed in white truffle vinaigrette. 1440 San Marco Boulevard, 32207; 904-398-1949  August 2004
    Orlando
    Christini's  Memorable Italian dishes; small, elegant room Expensive, and worth it. The people at my table raved about the rack of lamb, (“Never tasted better!”), Chilean sea bass, and the crème Brulée   A 10-minute ride from the Marriott’s Orlando World Center off Interstate 4; 7600 Doctor Phillips Blvd.  407-345-8770  August 2004
    Positano   It's located in an unpretentious shopping center and contains a pizzeria as well as a dining area, which usually isn't chic, but if you turn up your nose, you'll miss some really excellent food, plus friendly, fast service. My Shrimp Portofino was superb--jumbo shrimp sautéed in a rich porchini mushroom sauce with a touch of cream. Served with seasonal mixed vegetables, cooked just right, and a potato. ($20.95) 8995 West Colonial Drive, Ocoee, FL 34761 West Orlando off #438, #441 and #413 not far from the Country Club of Orlando. 407-291-2277   February 2005
    Palm Beach
    Golf Digest School, PGA National Resort, Palm Beach     Gardens, FL  I'm a great believer in piggybacking--doing something extra whenever doing a business trip. Recently, after making a presentation in Palm Beach, I had several hours available before catching my plane. So I booked a private golf lesson at the golf academy that adjoins the PGA National Resort & Spa. (You do not have to be a guest of the resort to take a golf lesson.) I had a great instructor named Kurt Mantyla. He used the proven teaching techniques that the Golf Digest Schools have perfected. The cost? Just $100 plus tip. The results? Noticeable. (561-627-7593)  NOVEMBER 2004
     Carmine's  People in the Palm Beach area consider Carmine's to be in a class by itself. When available they serve a marvelous and hard-to-obtain fish called hog snapper. Carmine's prepares it with capers, black olives, and roasted fennel in white wine and serves it with polenta. (561-624-1141 2460 PGA Boulevard, Palm Beach Gardens, FL)  NOVEMBER 2004

GEORGIA
   Americus
Americus isn't on the way to anywhere, but it's a great side trip. Andersonville, the notorious Civil War prison, is just out of town, as is Plains, Georgia, where Jimmy Carter still resides.

There's an excellent place to stay in the area--the Windsor Hotel in Americus. Built in 1892, it was where the rich and famous stayed when they came to south Georgia for the winter during Victorian times. Now it is beautifully restored and has won a National Preservation Award. Modest price. 888-297-9567  June 2005
  Atlanta
    Buckhead Diner.  Check out the Buckhead Diner on 3073 Piedmont NE (in Buckhead near Peachtree.)  Most people don't think of Southern cooking as cuisine, but some of their items may change your mind.  Examples: Veal and Wild Mushroom Meatloaf With Celery Mashed Potatoes, Thin Beans and Veal Jus; Tye's Smoked Ham Chop with Creamy Mac & Cheese and Wormwood Honey Jus; Rosemary and Ricotta Stuffed Chicken on Wilted Mustard Greens with Pinot Grigio Jus; and one of my favorites, Peach Bread Pudding with Southern Comfort Cream. 
     But remember what I said about menus, and ask your server, "What are your best-sellers?"
June 2002
    Chequers (near Perimeter Mall) One of my favorite restaurants. The specialties are their fish dishes and steak. In fact it has the feel of a New York fish restaurant. I am particularly fond of their clam chowder, sea bass, and crab cakes. The crab cakes are served Maryland style--lumps of crab with no filler. The Sunday buffet is excellent and modestly priced. (236 Perimeter Center Pkwy Northeast; Atlanta, Georgia 30346-1402; 770.391.9383)  March 2005
    Food 101.  For its size, Atlanta is one of the best restaurant towns in America.. Food 101 is one of the good ones. It's good but not fussy. The prices are reasonable. Here's one of my favorites. Crawford's butternut squash soup with a dollop of dried cranberry relish. (The blend of cranberries and butternut squash is a lovely surprise.) Tom's North Georgia trout with sweet potato hash and root vegetable jus is the best version of mountain trout I know about. 4969 Roswell Rd., 404-497-9700.
April 2004  (On a follow-up visit in the fall of 2004 the food and service were still good but not great.)
    An Entertaining Museum Experience In Georgia  Kennesaw, Georgia is the home of the Southern Museum of Civil War and Locomotive History. The "General"--the Civil War locomotive made famous in the movie "The Great Train Chase"--is on permanent display. But the museum displays more than the "General." It partners with the Smithsonian to mount some impressive exhibits. Located a just a few miles off I75 between Chattanooga and Atlanta, it's worth the time it takes to find it. 770-427-2117.The Kennesaw National Battlefield, located nearby, is also worth a visit.
APRIL 2004
     The Red Snapper   No, not the Red Lobster. This unusual Atlanta restaurant specializes in a fusion of Thai and New Orleans recipes. Take a taxi if you're from out of town, because it's not easy to find. I love their Snapper Yvonne, their Ginger Snapper, and the Crabmeat Vidalia. (In case you don't know your onions, the Vidalia onion is a premium sweet onion that is grown only in Georgia. I prefer it to any other onion, including the famous Maui onion.) 2100 Cheshire Bridge Rd NE, 404-634-8947. Inexpensive   OCTOBER 2004

Cartersville
Booth Western Art Museum 
Cartersville, Georgia is about the last place you would expect to find a Western museum.  But this beautiful new facility, located a few miles north of Atlanta just off I 75 is well worth a trip.  A wealthy Cartersville family (named Booth) donated to the town of Cartersville their wonderful collection of Western paintings and artifacts.  Today this exciting place has three floors of paintings, sculpture, real stage coaches, and posters from Western movies. 

DILLARD
The Dillard House  Located just a few miles from Highlands on 441, the main highway to Atlanta, there's a wonderful old eating establishment that serves some of the best Southern cooking you will ever taste.  They've been serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner since 1915.  I visited at lunch and watched young servers heap my table with some 20 dishes of excellently prepared creamed corn, fried chicken, BBQ, country ham, okra, Brunswick stew, red beets, butter beans, cole slaw, corn bread, honey and biscuits.  They told me to eat as much as I wanted, and if I emptied a bowl, they would bring another. This is a great place to sample Southern cooking that's well-prepared.  A bargain--less than $20.00!   Old Dillard Rd., U.S. 441/23, Dillard, GA 30537, 800-541-0671 JULY-AUGUST 2005

  SAVANNAH
The Gryphon Tea Room located in Savannah's wonderful historic district is a lovely place to stop and absorb the old town's beauty.  It was once a turn-of-the-century pharmacy on the ground floor of the Scottish Rite building, and you can still see Masonic codes that were worked into its design.  There are stained glass windows, a carved mahogany clock and Tiffany-style lamps.  The servers need some training in customer service, but their scones served with cream and jam are as good as you'll get in England's West Country, and that's saying a lot.  The scones come with a seasonal fruit salad and a pot of tea (or coffee) for just $7.95.  Try to get a table in the small, raised area that looks out on Madison Square and Bull Street. Forest Gump sat on a park bench waiting for a bus not far away. 337 Bull Street; Phone: 912 525 5880  JULY-AUGUST 2005

IDAHO
  Coer d'Alene
   Located just 45 minutes from Spokane, Washington, the entire area surrounding the 120-mile-long Idaho lake is gorgeous. Though it's just a few miles from the Canadian border, and most Americans think that means a cold place, the weather was mild when I did a Lincoln program there in late October. The resort itself is a fabled place. It has won the Grand Award from Wine Spectator and is a AAA Four Diamond property. Golf Odyssey called it "One of the world's top 20 resorts." The resort's golf course is famed for its floating green. Golfers, after their tee shot, board a small boat to reach the green. (Packages available. 800-688-5253 www.cdaresort.com) NOVEMBER 2004

ILLINOIS
  Chicago
The American Girl Place  I had heard about this phenomenon on the news, and when I saw scores of happy little girls of all ages with their moms or dads or grandparents streaming in and out of the place, as the father of three amazing daughters and two little granddaughters, I knew I had to go inside.   And what a warm, cheerful delight it proved to be.

The American Girl Place bills itself as a place for smiles on the Miracle Mile.  And it is true.  Everyone I saw was smiling because it’s full of surprises.  There’s a theater, and cooking classes, and books, and clothing, and a hair salon where girls can get made up just like their favorite doll, and dolls, dolls, dolls for many moods and from many time periods.  I was particularly taken by the Café, done in happy colors and offering three-course dinners ($18) or lunches ($17) or traditional afternoon tea ($16).  There’s another American Girl Place in New York and a new one is slated to open in Los Angeles next year.    111 East Chicago Avenue, Chicago, IL 60611 1-877-AG PLACE, www.americangirlplace.com  November 2005

RL   Next door to The American Girl Place is RL, one of the best people-watching spots in all Chicago.  RL is designer Ralph Lauren’s foray into the restaurant business.  The dining room is handsome and club-like, the food excellent, and the service superb. Its clientele consists of upscale locals and knowledgeable out-of-towners.  The place was so crowded at lunch that I had to take a small table behind the bar, which turned out to be a pleasant place.  I requested a Shrimp Louis, which wasn’t on the menu. (Crab Louis was on the menu.)  They made the change without a murmur, and produced a beautiful salad with the choicest shrimp imaginable.    115 E. Chicago Ave., Chicago, IL, 312/475-1100  November 2005

Salpicon  If you think Mexican cuisine is limited to refried beans and enchiladas, you haven’t tasted the delicious offerings at Salpicon, the hands-down favorite of many Chicago food buffs.  Don’t take just my word for it.  The Sun-Times says it offers “the best upscale Mexican fare in the city.”  I loved their queso fundido con camarones, an appetizer that’s a meal in itself.  It’s melted Chihuahua cheese, with Serrano chilies, onions, and grilled tiger shrimp served with warm tortillas for making tacos. My main dish was pescado al chipotle—Alaskan halibut wrapped in sweet potato strands, sautéed and served with a chipotle cream sauce with oyster mushrooms and herbed white rice.  You absolutely must try their pastel tres leches for dessert.  It’s a light orange-flavored cake soaked in three milks, frosted with freshly whipped cream and served with raspberry sauce.   www.salpicon.com  312.988.7811 1252 N Wells, Chicago  November 2005

Hotel Allegro   If you’re on a budget or if your company won’t pay for lavish accommodations, consider staying at a lovely little boutique hotel in downtown Chicago.  It’s the Hotel Allegro, located at 171 West Randolph Street (near La Salle Street).  It’s part of the Kimpton chain which owns European-style boutique hotels in a number of cities and resorts.  On my last visit I had a well-appointed, beautifully color-coordinated room with fine linens, computer connections, and a DVD player for less than $150.00 per night, which is a bargain in the theater district of Chicago.  The hotel also offers some attractive theater packages and it sometimes gives an AAA discount.  www.allegrochicago.com  Reservations: 800.643.1500
December 2005

Chef Petros Restaurant   Just across from Hotel Allegro is the Petros Restaurant and Bakery, one of those un-famous eateries that can be found in big cities, where the quality is high and the price is low, and where the famous sometimes are among the diners.  Russell Crowe is one of the famous who has eaten at Petros, I am reliably informed, but he wasn’t there the morning I had a beautiful egg and sausage breakfast complete for $5.99.  (160 N. LaSalle St.; 312-357-2700) December 2005

LOUISIANA
  New Orleans
  If you're planning a visit to New Orleans, visit the Internet. An excellent first stop is www.neworleansonline.com. The site has a schedule of events, must-see places, and a good selection of coupons that you can download and print.  JUNE 2004
   Bacco The best lunch value in the French Quarter. (I found Bacco at neworleansonline.) Two-course lunch specials begin at $10. Great food and 10-cent Martinis. Charming dining room; excellent service. 310 Chartres St. 504-522-2426
JUNE 2004
  Brennan's Brennan's still sets the standard for service and cuisine. The famed breakfast at Brennan's is pricey--$35 for the three-course breakfast--and worth every penny. My favorite is Eggs Sardou--poached eggs on artichoke bottoms nestled in a bed of creamed spinach and covered with Hollandaise sauce. Banana's Foster, which was invented at Brennan's, is a sinful way to conclude the experience. Ask to see the private rooms that contain memorabilia from the krewe of Bacchus which was begun by Owen Edward Brennan, Sr., the founder of Brennan's. The restaurant is located in the French Quarter at 417 Royal Street; phone: (504) 525-9711
JUNE 2004
   Hotel Monaco I enjoyed staying at a small, new boutique hotel on St. Charles Street, just a few steps away from the French Quarter and the streetcar to the Garden District. It's the Hotel Monaco. Moderate price. Amenities include complimentary overnight shoeshine, evening wine reception, Starbucks coffee in the morning, and if you desire, a bowl with a live goldfish. 333 St. Charles, phone 866-561-0010  September 2004

MASSACHUSETTS
  Boston
   For many years America's airports were culinary wastelands. But they've been improving lately, and there are actually some very good airport restaurants.  In Boston's Logan, it's Legal Seafoods. For a chain with 28 establishments, these people take their seafood seriously. Not a place to go for people who don't like fish--there are not many other items on the menu. I particularly enjoyed the chowder and the whitefish.
   Quincy Market. Several years ago I wrote that Quincy Market's food court contains the raw flavors of the new America: Irish, Italian, English, Chinese, Greek, Thai, Mexican, and Japanese. Today it is still a happy space where the best of many cultures meet and mingle. On a beautiful afternoon, I sipped a frappuccino and listened to street performers play traditional music from the Andes. The parking is overpriced. The food is inexpensive. The experience is priceless.  March 2005

MINNESOTA
   MINNEAPOLIS Suburbs
   Kincaid's Fish, Chop & Steak House  Large restaurants are seldom great restaurants, but Kincaid's breaks the rule. The service is attentive and confident. Diners smile in this restaurant, which is something that I always look for in choosing a place to eat. If they look grumpy, something's wrong. Kincaid's clam chowder is brilliant, and their margaritas are excellent. I enjoyed a wonderful grouper dish. Other notable choices: coconut-crusted prawns with Cajun marmalade, rock-salt-crusted prime rib (Rock salt does improve the flavor.)8400 Normandale Lake Blvd; Bloomington, MN 55437; Phone: (952) 921-2255  December 2004
   Chez Collette  If you can't get to France to savor escargot, this brasserie in the heartland of America is an excellent second-choice. Located in the Sofitel Minneapolis Hotel, its French provincial cooking is superb. Simple refinement; immaculate presentations. 5601 78th Street; Minneapolis, MN 55439-3105; phone 952-835-1900   December 2004

MISSOURI
   St. Louis
   Trattoria Marcella  This recommendation comes from the great sales trainer Austin McGonigle. "The very best calamari I have ever tasted." Austin was referring to one of their specialties: calamari on crispy spinach. Another specialty: The carpaccio di crostini--a first course of rare beef tenderloin sliced thin and layered with arugula, tart artichoke-onion relish and shaved Asiago cheese, served on slices of toasted bread. It's a family owned establishment located just off The Hill, where baseball legends Yogi Berra and Joe Garagiola grew up. A favorite of in-the-know locals. Loud, lively, and moderately priced. 3600 Watson Rd. St. Louis, MO 63109, 314-352-7706.  February 2005

NEVADA

Rent a car. One of the beauties of Vegas is its free parking. (Valet parking is available for a tip.) And there are wonderful destinations within an hour of the city. Avoid driving on the strip during early evening when traffic slows to a crawl.   May 2005

NORTH CAROLINA
  FLAT ROCK (ASHEVILLE area)
Season's There are several good places to stay and eat in the Asheville, North Carolina area.  One of them is the Highland Lake Inn, which has an excellent restaurant named Season’s.   I’m not crazy about the accommodations; my room was rustic on the cheap.  But their award-winning restaurant is another matter.

The toasted Macadamia crusted mountain trout, which is served with organic vegetable ragout and balsamic drizzle, is outstanding. 

I was surprised to find flower petals in my salad, and didn’t think I should eat them, but was assured by my waitress that it was perfectly safe.  They turned out to be quite tasty.

Here’s their salad recipe, compliments of Season’s:  baby lettuces, fresh mint 1 sprig, fresh flat-leaf parley 3 sprigs, fresh basil 1 sprig, edible flower petals  .5 cup extra virgin olive oil (evoo) 4 tbl, lemon (juiced) 1 each, sea salt and cracked pepper to taste; procedure: 1. pick, wash, and spin lettuces and herbs; 2. combine with picked flower petals; 3. toss with evoo, lemon juice, s&p.   Recommended flower petals: pansies.  Here’s a link to more of their recipes:www.hlinn.com/recipes.html (800) 635-5101  December 2005

  HIGHLANDS
This part of the Appalachians is strikingly beautiful, and nowhere has the environment been treated with greater love than in Highlands and the hamlets that surround it.  Long known by well-heeled, knowledgeable travelers as a destination, there are, as you would expect, several fine restaurants to choose from.   

OHIO
   Akron
   Ken Stewart's Grill.  Good food; popular with the locals; winner of Wine Spectator Magazine's Award of Excellence for its wine list.  I liked the horseradish- crusted salmon with Miso sauce, 1970 W. Market Street, Akron Ohio   330-867-2555  August 2004

   Cincinnati   
   It's a grand old city on the Ohio River with a storied past. Enjoy a magnificent view of its skyline and handsome football and baseball fields by crossing over the river to Kentucky. While on the Kentucky side, visit the Newport Aquarium which contains a fine collection of sharks plus rare creatures such as the Mandarin fish, the wolf eel, flashlight fish and the color-changing Giant Pacific Octopus.

Afterwards treat yourself to dinner at the Palace Restaurant in the Cincinnatian Hotel, a handsome small luxury hotel in downtown Cincinnati. My choice was the lightly crusted, delicate Dover sole served with wild mushroom Fricassee, pancetta, white Balsamic & shallot confit ($38.50) The presentation and service were memorable. The hotel, the restaurant, and its chef Guy Hulin have won every award imaginable. Just go. 601 Vine St. 513-381-6006 www.cincinnatianhotel.com  June 2005

COLUMBUS

OREGON

PORTLAND
A long-time Oregon resident asked me to tell my readers that Oregon is a dreadful place to live, that it rains all the time, and that my readers should not even think about moving to the state. 
 
Honest Abe could never tell such a lie, because Oregon is magnificent.  I followed an itinerary—which I will share with you—that an attendee at one of my presentations near Portland prepared.  It took me up the slopes of Mt. Hood and down through the Columbia River Gorge that Lewis and Clark had passed through during the fall of 1805 and the spring of 1806.
 
First I drove up Rte 212 to Boring. In Boring I took Rte 26 toward Sandy as far as Government Camp and then up to Timberline Lodge.  Timberline Lodge, which is located 6000 feet above sea level, was created as a Depression-era WPA project and has become an Oregon icon.  I spent a memorable afternoon sipping their special hot chocolate concoction in a rustic bar watching skiers taking the lift toward the higher slopes. 
 
Timberline has a famous chef named Left Benson who is known for his roast venison with wild mushrooms, ale-and-cheese soup, and cranberry-sour cream muffins. But he also has created the signature hot chocolate drink which, understandably, has a following on its own.  It’s served in a large glass mug and topped with bits of toffee and a huge mound of schlag, German for whipped cream. (http://www.timberlinelodge.com/)
 
Afterward I reluctantly left the lodge, headed downhill, turned left on Rte 26 until I reached Rt 35 which I followed north to Hood River where I passed through acres upon acres of farms and orchards.   I then took Rte 84 toward Portland, stopping for a delicious dinner at the Multnomah Falls Lodge.  The Lodge, which was built in 1922, is located at the base of the Multnomah Falls—the second highest year-round waterfall in the nation.    (503-695-2376)
 
Rte 84 passes through the 80-mile-long Columbia River Gorge, a lush world-class outdoor playground which was recognized in 1986 as a national scenic area—the nation’s first.  (http://gorp.away.com/gorp/resource/us_national_forest/or_colum.htm)  
 

PENNSYLVANIA
  Philadelphia
  City Tavern does business in a three-story reconstructed building located near the center of town in the historic district. Meals here recreate the dining experiences of the members of the First Continental Congress who used it as a gathering place. The Constitutional Convention held its closing banquet here.
  I liked the salmon stuffed with spinach and boursin with sherry cream sauce. Salmon once traveled as far up the Delaware River as Philadelphia, which explains why it was prepared so many ways at the original City Tavern. The fresh fruit strudel is excellent. They use a recipe that was brought by German settlers to Pennsylvania.(138 South 2nd Street at Walnut Street; Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19106; 215-413-1443)
APRIL 2004

There's a bold new building in downtown Philadelphia--the Kimmel Center For The Performing Arts. I attended a performance of the Chamber Orchestra of Philadelphia the night before one of my presentations and enjoyed the experience immensely. The Center, which contains several performing spaces of various sizes, is absolutely stunning.   NOVEMBER 2004

  Pittsburgh
   Recently I did two mornings of seminars in Pittsburgh, and went exploring each afternoon.  Located in a stunningly beautiful setting where mountains and rivers meet, Pittsburgh is rich in history, sports, and the arts. Here are two recommendations.  One.  The Frick Art and Historical Center, which contains a lovely art gallery and "Clayton"--the restored Victorian mansion where the Frick family resided. Two.  Hyeholde Restaurant. It's like eating a meal in a Norman castle.  My favorite dish:  Warm bosc soup with a pear dumpling and Bosc sorbet.  190 Hyeholde Dr, Coraopolis, PA 15108-2932 (412) 264-3116--expensive.  SUMMER 2003

SOUTH CAROLINA
  CHARLESTON
  In a town noted for excellent restaurants, Blossom is one of the best.  Their Carolina crab ravioli is delectable. The filling consists of mayonnaise, basil, bread crumbs, onions, salt, parmesan cheese, white pepper, and, of course, fresh crab meat.  Onions, porcinis, shitakes, and crimini mushrooms are sautéed in a canola/olive oil blend.  Just before mixture reaches sauce consistency, spinach is added along with fresh basil.  It’s served in a shallow 12" bowl.  (Blossom, 171 E Bay St.,Charleston, SC, 29401 (843) 722-9200)  October 2005

UTAH
  Salt Lake City
  Most tourists know Salt Lake City mainly as a launching pad to Utah's justly praised ski resorts such as Brighton, Deer Valley, and Park City and the famous parks and national monuments--Zion, Bryce Canyon, Moab, Natural Bridges, etc.

Forty-five minutes north of Salt Lake City is American Fork Canyon. My drive up the canyon in April was a breathtaking experience--a Kodak moment at every turn. I'm told it's even more glorious in the fall when the Aspens and Oaks are in full color. Here's a link to a site that describes the place. http://www.outdoorutah.com/Articles/a_wasatch_mountain_playground.htm

WEST VIRGINIA
     Next time you visit Washington, D.C., consider taking a delightful side trip. The region around Harpers Ferry, West Virginia is one of the loveliest spots in America.
The site of Civil War battles and John Brown's failed rebellion, it's where the Shenandoah River and the Potomac River merge.
     Jefferson called it "one of the most stupendous scenes of Nature." And it's only two hours from DC.
     About 25 minutes from Harpers Ferry there's a wonderful bed-and-breakfast--really, an English manor house. Three stars in the Mobil Guide, it should be four.
Filled with paintings and Oriental rugs and antiques, you will love it. Consider ordering the seven-course dinner--$65.Prices for rooms range from $200 to $300 on weekends. But if you call after noon on Friday or Saturday, you can get any room that's available for $129. Anytime, ask for the "procrastinator's special."  Hillbrook: A Country House Hotel 800-304-4223 or email at reservations@bookinn.com.
May 2002

WISCONSIN
MADISON
Basie’s Restaurant in the Radisson Hotel looks like a plain vanilla hotel restaurant, but they serve the most delicious chicken pot pie that I have ever tasted—-a breast of chicken surrounded by savory vegetables, all nestled in a flaky bed of puff pastry.  The price at lunch, less than $10.  (517 Grand Canyon Rd. Madison, WI 53719,    608-833-0110)  October 2005
 

INTERNATIONAL
BRAZIL
   Rio 
    I know, most Americans don't think of Brazil as a tourist destination.  Too bad! Sophisticated cities, stunning scenery, immense jungles, fabulous restaurants and hotels, beautiful people, vibrant night life--and everything's on sale.  The dollar trades at about 3:1.  I cashed in hotel points and miles for an amazing experience. Here are some recommendations:  The J.W. Marriott is a jewel of a hotel--quite new with impeccable service, and directly across from Copacabana Beach.  The Sheraton Hotel and Resort is a magnificent property with stunning views, acres of grounds, and is just feet from a glorious beach.
    American/TAM Airlines   If you use American Airline miles, you can fly into the interior on AA's partner TAM without using additional miles.  I did a RT from LAX to Manaus and was able to do an entire-day stopover in Brasilia without an extra charge. 

   Brasilia 
   Brasilia seems surreal--like an architectural museum frozen in the 1960s--but memorable.  One of its churches--the Santuario Dom Bosco--achieves something very rare in religious architecture.  The sanctuary (not the cathedral) is a plain building on the outside, and not ornate on the inside, yet somehow it mysteriously evokes a spiritual feeling. 

   Manaus  This river town on the edge of the Amazon jungle experienced a short-lived rubber boom at the turn of the 19th century that produced fabulous wealth.  The town itself is not much to see, but the remains of the mansions of the rubber barons and an amazing opera house that has been painstakingly restored to its original glory are worth seeing.  Stay at the Tropical Hotel, a sprawling masterpiece owned by Varig Airlines.  Located on the banks of a tributary of the Amazon, it's an excellent base for expeditions into the jungle.  The hotel even has its own well-kept zoo. Check out you room before settling in.  Some are ordinary, but others are just plain gorgeous.  (Your choices are much greater if you choose a room with one bed, not two.) 

Overview of Brazil  The place is huge--28 times the size of Italy.  It's below the Equator, so the seasons are reversed.  When I was in Rio in May the weather was much like Marina del Rey's--in the 70s--with an occasional brief shower.  In case you forgot, Pope Alexander VI divided the new world between Spain and Portugal, and Portugal was awarded Brazil.  That's the reason Portuguese is spoken, not Spanish.  There are lots of English speakers in the big cities.  Credit cards are accepted everywhere, and there are business centers with computer connections in all the big hotels.  Follow safety precautions that you follow in many big cities abroad: Hold on to your camera, and don't take your billfold or purse on the streets--just a small amount of paper currency encircled with a rubber band in your side pocket, and a credit card or two.  Write down the numbers of the credit card with their phone numbers and leave the information in your room.  You can quickly stop the credit card with a phone call.  Americans are well liked.  The Iraq war was unpopular, but Brazilians don't feel ill-will toward ordinary Americans.  A cab driver told me: "I was opposed to the war, but am very happy it was short."  They are glad to see tourists.  Our usual concerns  seem far away down there.  Brazilians are a friendly people, and respond cheerfully to Americans who know how to smile.  For retirees who want to spend time abroad, Brazil is a beautiful place to live the good life at discount prices.   
SUMMER 2003

CANADA
   Calgary
     GOING TO CANADA?  There's a remarkable place of natural beauty right in the center of downtown Calgary.  It's Devonian Gardens--2.5 acres of gardens and waterfalls, 138 varieties of greenery, 16,000 Florida tropicals and 4,000 local plants.  It's located located (improbably) on the 4th level of Dominion Square, 317  7th Avenue.  And it's free.

   Toronto
    Joe Badali's Inexpensive, and wonderful I happened to visit on a night when they served their pasta, soup, pizza, and salad buffet.  Spectacular price--$14.95 (Canadian)  Be sure to order a bellini--a memorable drink.  156 Front St. West (downtown, three blocks from the Toronto Hilton or the Sheraton--in a fun part of Toronto)  Summer 2002

CHINA   (PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA)

Just two decades ago the people of China had barely enough to eat. Today China has the fastest growing economy in the world--something that has to be seen to be believed. On a recent trip to China--four days in Beijing and three days in Shanghai, which is about right for an overview--here's what I observed:

*Traffic as bad as Tokyo's or LA's.
*Clean streets and sidewalks with hardly a scrap of paper to be seen.
*Huge, dramatic buildings going up everywhere. Most of the cranes in the world seem to be in Beijing or Shanghai. Famed architect John Portman has designed three brilliant hotels in Shanghai alone.
*Excitement and pride. Beijing is getting ready for the Olympics in 2008 and Shanghai for the World Expo in 2010. *Entrepreneurship. Everybody is trying to get in on the action. Even bus drivers sell bottles of water--two for a dollar.
*Openness toward Western ideas that is perhaps unparalleled in history. Example. The State owns the land but individuals can own condos and finance them with 5-10-15-and 20-year mortgages. As my guide put it, "We are learning from you." *Unbelievable bargains. I was particularly impressed with the silk scarves and rugs.
*Hustlers. Most of the antiques and coins in the shops--except for the government approved (or run) shops--are fakes. You will be able to purchase watches on the streets for almost nothing, but they tend not to run very long.
*Business opportunities. China is looking for partners and investors. China owns more American bonds than any other nation on earth, and it will have to find ways to spend dollars on American products and services.

A TRAVEL BARGAIN Check out www.smartours.com. If you are accustomed to flying business-class or first-class and staying in five-star hotels, don't consider smarTours. But if you don't mind flying coach and staying in four-star hotels, this company provides excellent value. (You may want to consider using Smartour and purchasing upgrades for your flight.) Their guides are fantastic; they take away the pain of navigating through a really foreign culture.

FRANCE

   French Fries  Thomas Jefferson, who remained a passionate lover of French culture all his life, tasted potatoes cooked this way for the first time in Paris when he was a member of the American mission to France. Jefferson brought the recipe home, and in 1802 served them at a White House dinner, calling them "potatoes served in the French manner."   

I had a very pleasant experience staying in a beautiful, privately-owned apartment on the Seine at Rue de Poissey. These apartments can be leased--five-night minimum--for just a bit more than a good hotel.

U.K.
If you are brave enough to rent a car in England and tour the countryside on your own, you are in for a treat. Here's a tip. Purchase a membership in the National Trust. For less than $100, you'll be able to visit scores of the most amazing castles, manor homes, and private gardens imaginable. After you join, you can visit as many as you wish, as often as you wish.
WINTER 2003/2004

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